STICKPIN
14-karat gold, platinum, cabochon sapphire, diamond
H. 3 inches • W. ⅞ inch • D. ⅛ inch
 
WORKMASTER: Feodor Alexeievich Afanasiev

DATE: 1899–1908

PLACE: St. Petersburg

MARKS OR SIGNATURES: On the pin: FA, in Cyrillic, in a rectangular punch; 56, Cyrillic initials for Ja.L. for Jakov Ljapunov.
 
Details of the life of the goldsmith Feodor Afanasiev have proved to be elusive. He was apprenticed to the silversmith E. Sistonen between 1883 and 1888. Upon completion of that apprenticeship, Afanasiev worked for the jeweler K. Bokh from 1888 to 1907 after which time he opened a small workshop under contract to Fabergé at 24 Bolshaya Morskaya, the building that was headquarters of the House of Fabergé. The Afanasiev shop specialized in miniature Easter eggs, small objects in silver-gilt and guilloché enamel and enameled silver-gilt-mounted hardstone. The shop also fabricated small jewels such as gem-set gold and enamel pendants and stickpins.
In this stickpin, the large glowing oval cabochon sapphire is effectively contrasted to and enframed in platinum set with eight small twinkling rose-cut diamonds. At the time, such a platinum frame would have been regarded as new and modern. Platinum only recently had come into use as a setting for diamonds, which, of course, it formed a perfect complement.
 
Stickpins were considered a necessary gentleman’s accessory during the Belle Époque, and the well-dressed male usually had a collection of such diminutive jewels. The enterprising House of Fabergé was happy to augment such assemblages, and stickpins made charming and appropriate presents.
 
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